Acids in Skincare
Adding chemical acids into your skincare routine can often sound intimidating, especially when the skincare universe is touting its use/abuse. There is no ONE SIZE FITS ALL, when it comes to skincare acids, as we all have different skin types, even if we share similar skincare concerns.
We will do a series on Acids in Skincare, addressing the do’s and don’ts with acids, starting with what skincare acids are.
There are 3 groups of acids, viz. Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Beta Hydroxy Acids and Poly Hydroxy Acids. Their main function in skincare is to act as a chemical exfoliant on the skin. The do this by dissolving the glue that binds dead skin cells on the surface of the skin (the epidermis), allowing them to be sloughed away easily, speeding up skin cell renewal and revealing smoother, brighter-looking skin.
While they are called ‘chemical exfoliants’, many of them are derived from plants or fruit extracts.
These acids need not be feared – but respected – and understood before use. More importantly, it’s best to avoid sun exposure and use SPF products after using any skincare acid (even from the night before), as the skin becomes more prone to UV damage from the sun.
What Each Group Consist of and those found mostly in skincare:
- Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) – Glycolic Acid, Tartaric, Citric Acid, Malic Acid, Mandelic Acid and Lactic Acid
- Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) – Salicylic Acid
- Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs) – Gluconolactone, Lacto bionic Acid, Maltobionic Acid, Azelaic Acid and Potassium Azelyl Diglycinate (an Azelaic Acid Derivative)
The main difference between these three groups of skincare acids is their molecule size. Glycolic Acid, the strongest chemical exfoliant, has the smallest molecule size and can penetrate deep into the skin.
Always test patch any product before using on your skin. More is not always better in skincare.
